Gathering for a festive meal with family and friends is an essential part of every Shabbos and nearly every Jewish holiday. A festive meal suggests the inclusion of delicious food and quality wine. However, a Shabbos or Yom Tov meal is, first and foremost, just a meal. Aside from fast days, we all eat three meals a day, and we make them festive on special Jewish occasions in honor of the sanctity of the day.
The Purim seuda is extra special in that it is arguably the main event of the holiday. Yes, we start Purim with the Megillah reading at night and then again the following morning, but we rush through the mishloach manot, and after feeling accomplished for fulfilling the mitzvot of the day, we finally sit down to the seuda. What’s even more special about the Purim feast is that there is such an emphasis on drinking wine, despite the fact that we don’t even make Kiddush! Since drinking wine is so emphasized on Purim, there is some pressure on both the hosts and the guests. Hosts want their guests to feel comfortable, and guests don’t want to feel forced to drink wine they don’t enjoy just because it’s Purim. Therefore, the challenge for both hosts and guests is finding wines that will appeal to everyone’s taste. With that in mind, here is a short review of my Purim selections:
Bartenura Lychee-flavored Moscato Cans, NV: You’re not daydreaming. Yes, I’m actually recommending a Moscato! Back when I lived in Israel, I would purchase a bottle of Moscato every week for Shabbos and Yom Tov, in addition to 2-3 fine dry red and white wines, as an inexpensive, crowd-pleasing dessert wine. Among my go-tos were Teperberg’s and Zion’s Moscatos. I find Bartenura’s lychee-flavored Moscato Cans to be a fun, tasty, refreshing and flavorful wine that can be enjoyed at any point during the seuda. It’s also a great item to include in your mishloach manot. PSA: It is not kosher for Pesach!
Jeunesse Pinot Noir, 2023: Some of you may be thinking, “Has Geller lost it?!” I won’t pretend that Jeunesse wines are generally my preferred style. However, if asked, Pinot Noir would likely be named my favorite grape variety, though I tend to think less about specific varieties and more about how and where a wine is made, as well as its overall quality. It is an impressive and bold move on the part of winemaker Alicia Wilbur and the team at Herzog to add a Pinot Noir to the Jeunesse lineup, and it’s a great way to introduce newcomers to wine to this amazing grape.
Champagne Drappier, Carte d’Or, Brut NV: I’ve reviewed the Carte d’Or in these pages before, probably more than once, but I purposely chose the magnum this time. Magnums are a true centerpiece on any table, especially when it’s a great wine like this one. Perfect for parties and meals with many guests, it’s also a fantastic way to add some hiddur mitzvah to your seuda! Magnums also last about 10-15% longer than regular 750ml bottles because the air-to-wine ratio is lower, which, for my own taste, is crucial with Champagne. Enjoy the zing of the bubbles and the notes of fresh lemon, green apple, brioche, and hazelnuts with your guests. Like most dry sparkling wines, this one pairs well with almost any type of food you may serve at the seuda.
Celler de Capçanes, La Flor del Flor del Primavera, Samso, DO Montsant, 2021: A favorite from Capçanes made from Carignan (“Samso” in Catalan) grown on nearly century-old vines in the mountainous vineyards surrounding the winery. (I have great memories with my wife Yael and our then-16-month-old son riding up the vineyards in the Jeep of Capçanes’s Jürgen Wagner on a beautiful fall morning.) This wine is now mevushal, allowing it to be shared in any setting, regardless of location or the religious affiliation of your guests.
Gabriel Geller is director of public relations and wine education for Royal Wines.
