Teaneck–In an exciting move for Teaneck’s kosher culinary scene, Chef Kiko Sante, who has worked in several Michelin-starred restaurants over an impressive career, has joined the staff of Mocha Bleu as Executive Chef. “I have never had food like this in my life,” said Naftali Abenaim, Mocha Bleu’s owner. Sante was previously a chef at Manhattan’s legendary Rainbow Room, and also at two well-known top Manhattan restaurants that are now closed: Orsini, which had three and a half Michelin stars, and Tino’s Restaurant. Sante has lived in the United States for 32 years.
Sante’s arrival coincides with the return of Raphael (who only goes by one name, like Prince, or the Rav), a French chef who returns to Mocha Bleu from a stint at Manhattan’s Dean and Deluca, as one of the restaurant’s two executive pastry chefs, along with Hector Ayala. In addition to many others, Raphael originated the “Mocha Bleu” pastry for which the restaurant is named, a delicious melange of hazelnut, praline, chocolate cake, ganache and pareve buttercream.
Sante has previously consulted on the menu for Mocha Bleu, and now has brought his talents here full time, as he lives in New Jersey and is excited for the new, more local opportunity. “I love the place and the owner is a longtime friend of mine. We would like to make something special, original. We specialize in old fashioned Italian flavors with a modern twist,” Sante told JLBC.
Born in Sicily, Sante was educated in the culinary arts in San Ramon, near Milan. “It’s close to France, so the specialties are seasonal fish, seasonal vegetables, farm-to-table,” Sante said. The sauces also are more creamy than the tomato-based Italian sauces of the south. Sante said he plans to use organic produce when possible, fresh herbs, and everything will always be made to order. Changes in the kitchen also include the acquisition of a charcoal grill for vegetables and fish, which is a zesty and healthy way to cook food gently, while maintaining the food’s essential flavors. “It’s very popular. A lot of people like it,” said Sante.
Healthy cooking is something on which Sante is focused, and said that he learned a lot about this from his past experiences cooking in New York. He relayed that the wife of the owner of Tino’s Restaurant was a well-known Manhattan cardiologist, who imparted the importance of a healthy Mediterranean diet.
Over the next few weeks, Sante will be overhauling the menu by adding new classics in addition to the crowd favorites for which Mocha Bleu is known. “Not only are you going to eat with your taste buds, you will also eat with your eyes,” Sante said.
“He creates culinary art pieces. His creations are out of this world. When it comes to being innovative, Kiko is the guy,” said Abenaim.
For now, when you come to Mocha Bleu, you’re well-advised to ask for the day’s special, which Chef Sante will make based on the day of the week and the season’s best ingredients. For example, on Sunday, he makes a decadent roasted vegetable lasagne with a truffle cream white sauce. A recent daily soup special on Monday was made with orange lentils, and featured roasted vegetables and capellini pasta toasted with onions, orange zest and a bit of butter.
He will also be adding ingredients such as buffalo mozzarella, wild mushrooms and truffle oil to the wood-fired oven pizzas, and making homemade fresh pasta such as tricolor gnocchi, the colors courtesy of beet, spinach and egg. Brunch items include poached eggs served with gravlax, fresh beets, baby organic greens and marinated portobello mushrooms.
Sante has also created a filet of sole dish with lemon, roasted garlic, chardonnay, and capers. He will also be serving salmon, tuna and branzino on a semi-regular basis. Sante mentioned he also recently perfected a stuffed artichoke with roasted vegetables in a creamy cognac sauce, which will soon be on the menu.
Abenaim added that the team at Mocha Bleu includes a new restaurant manager, Yoni Kushner, who joins the very friendly and passionate bakery manager Sarah Frias. The bakery is open morning to evening, selling coffee and beverages along with Raphael’s delectable French pastry, such as macaroons, tarts, mousses and breads, such as brioche, croissants and challah.
Mocha Bleu also functions as a full service caterer. “We have bar/bat mitzvah packages that are all inclusive, and also do brisim, weddings, and simchas,” said Abenaim. Mocha Bleu caters at its location on 1399 Queen Anne Road, which holds up to 160 people, or at other venues. The restaurant is Cholev Yisrael dairy, and the pastries are all pareve. Mocha Bleu can be reached at (201) 837-2538.
By Elizabeth Kratz
