A moving part of the Yamin Noraim service is the recitation of the piyyut “Arzei HaLevanon,” in which we describe the torture and death of the Asara Harugei Malchut, the 10 Martyrs, who were killed by the Romans. We tearfully relay how the great Tannah, Rabbi Akiva was murdered as his skin was peeled with hot combs of iron.
Where did this happen? Maseches Smachos teaches that Rabbi Akiva was captured by the Romans and imprisoned in Caesarea (Chapter 8 as cited in Eretz Chemda compiled by Rav Yechiel Michel Stern). One who visits the Roman theater in Caesarea could be impressed by the Roman architecture that has remained intact for close to 2,000 years. But if we think a little deeper, this could very well have been the site of the cruel public murder of Rabbi Akiva for his “crime” of studying Torah despite the Roman edict.
Caesarea is actually a fascinating place to visit in Israel. This city, along the gorgeous Mediterranean Coast, was built circa 30 CE by King Herod, a Roman vasal king who defeated the last of the Hasmonean dynasty. He built this city in honor of the Roman Emperor, Augustus Caesar, and thus its name, Caesarea. Caesaria became the Roman headquarters in the land of Israel shortly before the destruction of the Second Beit Hamikdash.
It’s interesting” Caesarea is actually the antithesis of Yerushalayim. If Yerushalayim represents the ideal of Jewish holiness, Caesaria represents the epitome of Roman culture and depravity. The Gemara goes so far as to say that Caesarea and Yerushalayim can not coexist. If Yerushalayim is inhabited, Caesarea must be destroyed, and vice versa (Megillah6A).
This clash between Jewish and Roman culture can be further exhibited at the hippodrome in Caesarea. This large arena that was used for horse races and also for gladiatorial combat represents the antithesis of Jewish values. It was here that people would cheer and jeer as someone would lose his life to entertain a crowd.
Caearea is also the site of an event described in the book of Flavius Josephus, the famous Jewish Roman historian. Josephus described how the Roman Emperor decreed that statues of himself be placed all over Jerusalem. The Jews were shocked and upset as idols are forbidden according to Torah law. A delegation of Jews went to Caesarea to make a request to Pontius Pilate, the Roman procurator, to remove the statues. When their request was denied, they fell and prostrated themselves for five days. A day later, Pilate summoned the Jewish delegation and ordered his soldiers to surround them. The Jews must agree to accept the images of Caesar or else their bodies would be cut to pieces, he decreed. At once, as if rehearsed, the Jews fell down and bared their necks. They proclaimed that they would rather be killed than transgress their precious laws.
The Roman procurator was so impressed by their level of belief that he ordered that the statues be removed from Jerusalem. (Josephus, “The Wars of the Jews: Book 2,” Chapter 9) It was in Caesarea that our ancestors displayed their great devotion and willingness to sacrifice their lives for the word of God.
At Caesarea, we can also see the remains of Sebastos, Herod’s artificial harbor. Herod is famous for his building projects that defy nature, and this one was quite the feat in the ancient world. This port became a door to the West and welcomed trade into Israel. In the Roman era, one docking in the harbor would emerge onto land and directly opposite was an elevated temple for Roma and Augustus. The weary traveler could thank the gods for the success of his journey. This further represents the infiltration of pagan Roman culture into the land of Israel.
Rabbi Akiva perished in Caesarea with the word “Echod” from Shema Yisrael on his lips. One level of understanding the famous pasuk of Shema Yisrael is to understand the distinction between the two names of God mentioned in the verse. Now, Hashem is “Elokeinu”: He is our God and the nations of the world do not fully understand him. One day in the future, Hashem will be “Echod” and will be universally recognized. (Rashi Devarim 6:4) Now, we live in the shadow of Roman culture and its impact on the world. Hopefully this year, we will merit a complete redemption, Caesarea will be destroyed and Yerushalayim and all that it represents will be rebuilt! Ketiva v’chatima tova!
Hava Preil is an enthusiastic licensed Israeli tour guide. She grew up on the Upper West Side of Manhattan and holds an MA in Judaic studies. Hava has developed and taught accredited courses in Tanach and Jewish ethics for Naaleh/Woodmont College and Cybersem. She currently lives in Givat Ze’ev, Israel with her family. Hava can be reached at (Israel):054-844-1579; (USA(: 845-391-0438 or at [email protected]