It’s been brought up to me several times recently that the rising costs of kosher wine are concerning, and in some ways inappropriate. Speaking about this with rabbanim inevitably presents the suggestion that spending too much for a single bottle, or even speaking about wine excessively when children are present, exhibits an inconsistent or concerning set of values.
I hear this loud and clear: If we are overly materialistic about wine, like we might be about an expensive car or vacation, we are communicating to children and others that these are essential or necessary things to us, when in fact expensive wine is clearly a luxury item. Our focus should be on Torah and mitzvot; kiddush and seudat mitzvot are but a small part of that. This topic was addressed very recently by Torahweb.org, and I strongly recommend my colleague Pearl Markovitz’s writeup of talks given by Rabbi Yaakov Neuburger and Rabbi Aryeh Liebowitz for further discussion (https://tinyurl.com/2xnzd68u).
I understand the reasons for both kosher wine’s increasing costs, which include but are not limited to the rising costs of kosher wine production. There are also benefits that come to us when the quality of kosher wine improves and becomes collectible, particularly economically for the Jews who toil in the kosher wine industry in Israel and around the world. On the other hand, I am also sensitive to the fact that many people, including myself, generally do not see wine as an investment. To be quite clear, I would say 70% of us buy wine simply as one part of a seudah, to make kiddush on Shabbat or to fulfill our seudat mitzvah on holidays.
The price point of $22 is my perceived upper limit for weekly wine choices not made for investment purposes. I want to be clear that I do actually have standards; I want the wine in my glass to be well-made and delicious. I just want it to not cost an arm and a leg. I have found that this reasonable price point can ensure good quality and a good hechsher without breaking the bank. Here are my own recommendations for great seudah wines, $22 or less.
At $21.99, the Goose Bay Sauvignon Blanc 2021 is a very light and aromatic wine and one of my all-time annual favorites. With the viscosity almost of water, this delectable citrusy yet dry wine is great for very light seudot that includes salad and fish. Enjoy this wine very cold, and make sure to enjoy its scents of grapefruit and strawberry in the glass before you taste and a beautiful refreshing zest at the finish. It has a distinctive New Zealand citrus zing snap that gets me every time; for me it’s the mark of a well-made sauvignon blanc from the southern hemisphere.
Festa D’Estate Sparkling Rose 2020 is a bubbly wine with a sweeter taste than regular Italian prosecco, and at $13.99 (exclusively available on KosherWine.com), it is a good choice for someone experimenting outside the genre of the Bartenura blue bottle. I know you’re out there! This wine has a nice scent of red fruit and peach, and is a great aperitif or dessert accompaniment. Serve this chilled as well.
Dalton Estate’s Unoaked Chardonnay 2020 ($17.99) is a bit of an unusual chardonnay in that it has more citrus and pineapple/tropical notes than the more traditional and sweeter notes chardonnay usually displays, of apple and pear. This is probably a result of where the grapes were grown, and specifically in Israel’s warmer Mediterranean climate. This is a fun wine that pairs well with fish and chicken. I like that we can buy great Israeli wine at this price point, and Dalton is an excellent label to look for when seeking affordable, quality bottles.
For those serving sushi or ethnic foods for their Purim seudah, I really like the Pacifica Riesling 2019 ($15.99). This green-apple-and-pear scented fruity white wine is pleasant and perfect for tamping down a meal that includes wasabi or hot chilis, without any dryness to get in the way of the experience. It’s easy to drink and also pairs well with fruity desserts.
The wine that was one of the biggest surprises of the Jewish Link Wine Guide tastings was the Twin Suns Cabernet Sauvignon 2019. This $14.99 wine is a great buy that really wipes the floor with a lot of other wines that are much more expensive. This is a wine made by Shimon and Gabriel Weiss with grapes from Lodi, California, and it’s a good wine to pair with chicken dishes, Mediterranean foods or even charcuterie. Earthy with notes of vanilla, with a nice bit of depth from oak aging, this is basically one of the current best kosher wine buys on the planet, but it’s certainly not for keeping in the cellar. Drink it now and enjoy it.
The Elvi Herenza Rioja 2019 ($17.99) is also one of the best red wines under $20 that I know of. It’s expressive, warm, with notes of ruby-red fruit that goes with many foods, particularly spiced chicken and barbecued brisket. This wine, made by the Cohen family in Spain, stands up to a main course like a champ. I considered only recommending the new kosher version of the Bodegas Faustino VI Rioja 2020, which does come in a very cool frosted wine bottle, but it’s $2 more, and if given the choice between the two, I would take the Elvi every time.
While I hope you take this opportunity to stock up on these wines for Pesach, I hope whatever wines you choose are enjoyed in moderation and in good health. Purim Samayach!
By Elizabeth Kratz
