In Yerushalayim, we marvel at the remains of 2,000-year-old structures from the time of the second Beit Hamikdash. We pray at the Kotel HaMa’aravi, the Western retaining wall of Har Habayit, built by King Herod. In Hevron though, we are witness to a complete structure from the time of the second Beit HaMikdash, which is still standing in its entirety. Yes, I’m referring to Me’erat HaMachpela.
Have you ever wondered why it is called a “Me’ara,” which in Hebrew means a “cave,” when it is actually quite an impressive building?
When Avraham Avinu purchased Me’arat Hamachpela from Ephron Hahiti, he purchased a burial cave where he buried his beloved wife Sarah. This is the same cave where he was later buried, then Rivka and Yitzchak, as well as Yaakov and Leah. About 1,500 years later, King Herod built the monumental structure that we see now, on top of the entrance to the burial cave. The structure of the stones and construction in general is almost identical to the construction of the Western Wall. In Hevron, we can see the complete structure including the decorative columns that were destroyed along the Western Wall. The entrance to an ancient burial cave has actually been discovered under what is called Ulam Yitzchak, the Hall of Isaac.
Aside from 10 days a year, however, Jews cannot visit Ulam Yitzchak, which is under control of the Muslim Waqf. Nowadays, Me’arat Hamachpela is divided between Jewish and Muslim control. There are 10 days a year when only Muslims can visit Me’arat Hamachpela and there are also 10 days a year when the entire Me’arat Hamachpela is open to Jews.
This situation is actually much better than it has been in most of our history. In the Middle Ages, the Crusaders built a church in what is today Isaac’s Hall. The crenelations that we see on the outside of the building were also added by the Christians. When the Muslims took over the land of Israel, they turned Me’arat Hamachpela into a mosque and added the minarets on the outside of the structure.
Noam Arnon, an expert on Hevron, relays that in the mid-13th century, the Mamluk Muslims imposed a humiliating decree on the Jews. They did not allow them to enter the actual building of Me’arat Hamachpela to pray at the burial place of our forefathers. There were steps leading up to the entrance of the building and Jews were not allowed to go past the seventh step. Nevertheless, Jews acted with great devotion and came to pray at the famous “Seventh Step,” which was the closest they could get to our holy Avot and Imahot.
This was the situation for hundreds of years until 1967 when the State of Israel liberated Hevron. The IDF destroyed the humiliating steps at the entrance of the building, and Jews can now go inside the actual structure. (Noam Arnon, “Hebron—4000 Years and 40: The Story of the City of the Patriarchs,” 5773) It’s interesting to note that you will still see some Jews who prefer to pray at the site of that staircase, outside the building, rather than to go inside. Perhaps that is because they may actually be closer there to the entrance of the burial cave than one can get inside the Jewish-controlled part of the building.
What is so special about Me’arat Hamachpela? Why did Avraham Avinu go to such great lengths and pay such an exorbitant price to purchase this specific burial cave? Pirkei DeRabi Eliezer teaches that Avraham Avinu first discovered this cave when he was entertaining his guests only three days after his circumcision. He wanted to slaughter some cattle to prepare a meal for his guests but one animal ran away. Avraham Avinu ran after it until this cave at the edge of Hevron. It was there that he found the burial place of Adam and Hava. He saw them sleeping with candles lit above them and smelled a pleasant fragrance. (Pirkei DeRabi Eliezer Ch. 36 as cited in Sifsei Chaim on Bereshit) Avraham Avinu realized that he had discovered the entrance to Gan Eden in this world.
The Sifsei Chaim, a compilation of Rav Chaim Friedlander’s teachings on the weekly parsha, teaches that Avraham Avinu merited to be buried at this place, at the place of connection to Gan Eden on this world, due to his acts of kindness. Naturally, people want to take and indulge themselves. One who gives and overcomes his natural tendencies, and does acts of kindness purifies his physical body from physicality. This is the level of Gan Eden! (Friedlander, Bereshit)
Our Avot and Imahot were worthy to be buried in Me’arat Hamachpela due to their high spiritual levels. Today, we are blessed that we can once again visit this special place. Let’s also learn from the deep lesson of Me’arat Hamachpeila. The entrance to Gan Eden can be reached when we give to others. May we follow in the footsteps of our holy patriarchs and matriarchs!
Hava Preil is an enthusiastic licensed Israeli tour guide. She grew up on the Upper West Side of Manhattan and holds an MA in Judaic studies. Preil has developed and taught accredited courses in Tanach and Jewish ethics for Naaleh/Woodmont College and Cybersem. She currently lives in Givat Ze’ev, Israel with her family. Hava can be reached at IL:054-844-1579, USA: 845-391-0438 or at [email protected].
