Avi Feldstein, a poet and an Israel wine pioneer with a focus on the grapes of the Upper Galil, has just launched four new wines in the United States, imported by Royal Wines. Feldstein, who launched his eponymous winery in 2014, was long associated with Segal Wines before it became Barkan/Segal. In fact, he is still working at the winery where he spent many years of his career. He now serves as technical director, working alongside winemaker Itay Lahat, who has stepped up to the role at what is now one of Israel’s largest commercial wineries, after Ido Lewinsohn’s departure.

Feldstein was in the U.S. to help launch his winery to the market, and presented his wines in Teaneck at an art gallery fundraiser to benefit Amit Children, raising awareness about the need to support graduates of the Amit network of schools in Israel, many of whom are serving in the IDF. The event also featured Israeli artist UBAB, whose work is available at 198 The Plaza, Jennie Mohl’s gallery in Teaneck. UBAB’s art is influenced by his life in Israel, and many of his pieces from this past year were influenced by his IDF service in Gaza and Lebanon. Some artwork in the collection is still available for viewing and purchase at the gallery.

Feldstein is the acknowledged and lauded creator of Segal’s Unfiltered Cabernet Sauvignon, one of Israel’s most iconic wines, which has a distinctive label that features crushed grape seeds. When I asked him if it had been his idea to include the grape seeds in the wine bottle, Feldstein admitted that it was, and indicated it was part of his winemaking philosophy to include as much of the terroir of the Galil in (and on!) the bottle as possible. He even planted a specific type of mulberry tree around the vineyards that now provides the pulp for the labels.

Segal’s Single Vineyard Rechasim Argaman, from 2006, the first premium Israeli wine made from the argaman variety, is also one of Feldstein’s most well-known accomplishments. He is also known as a pioneer of dabouki, a grape variety native to Israel that was grown in the region “forever,” but there’s physical evidence of it from at least 2,000 years ago. “Wine presses we have found in the area have dabouki seeds still in them,” Feldstein told the group. Because conquering Arabs pulled out grape vineyards because they don’t make or drink wine, the only grapes that remained afterwards were table or eating grapes. This has led to a vacuum in terms of identifying Israel’s wine identity, a topic about which much ink (or wine) has been spilled.

“Locality is very important with wine. We have in the past had to adapt [international variety] wines to Israel’s harsh climate. But now the industry wants to say something about its identity. We want to choose varieties that will reflect Israel. For me that means including some indigenous varieties,” said Feldstein. The four wines we tasted were as follows:

Feldstein Dabouki 2023 ($46.99), a dry white wine composed of 90% dabouki, 5% marawi and 5% jandali. This is a rich white wine, citrus-fruit forward with minerality and tropical notes of green melon, unripe banana and a low acid finish. The wine is given richness by having been aged sur lie (on the lees) and was “seasoned” with two other native grapes, marawin and jandali, from the same vineyard. Some might say this wine is similar to a sauvignon blanc, and I see the comparison but I feel it is richer while being less acidic.

My favorite wine of the night was the Feldstein Grenache Rosé 2023 ($46.99). The wine is composed of “majority grenache,” according to Feldstein, but also includes some carignan, cinsault and argaman to create this aromatic bold yet restrained Provence-style rosé. The aroma is of blossom, pear, quince, apple and unripe strawberry. Its delicious acidity was achieved by picking the grapes early. “The emphasis of this wine is on the Upper Galilee; there’s a special spirit and a taste of a place,” Feldstein said. If that’s the taste of the place, I’d be happy to live there!

First of the two red wines of the evening was the Feldstein Gilgamesh 2020 ($57.99), named for the hero of the Assyrian epic from Babylonian literature. It is made from six varieties from five vineyards in three regions, combining the high elevation of the north, the central mountains and coastal regions. “The cabernet receives a sting from the grenache, volume from carignan; freshness, energy and drinkability from argaman and syrah. The roussanne knits it all together.” I found this wine to be complex, layered, drinkable and exceedingly well-balanced. I found it interesting and fun as well.

Finally, the last wine of the night was the Feldstein Cabernet Sauvignon 2019 ($79.99), a deep red wine macerated on its skins for 65 days and then aged for 18 months in new oak barrels from the Forest of Tronçais in France. Feldstein said the wine is representative of the full flavor of the cabernets grown in the Dishon Valley, which has minerality and strength added to it by the elevation of the Dalton Plateau. I found this wine very concentrated, chewy and dark. Feldstein said this wine was like “cabernet after a sculpting diet,” or with excess fat removed. I understand what flab in a wine is, so this wine definitely does not have that. I would recommend aging this a few years or decanting it for several hours before drinking it. This wine is best for people who love bold and deep red wines.

The Feldstein wine portfolio is available in limited quantities in kosher wine stores and on kosherwine.com.