New York—T he Kosher Food and Wine Experience in New York, produced by the Royal Wine Company, attracted close to 1,800 wine professionals and enthusiasts who sipped and nibbled their way through offerings from 30 winemakers and 30 food purveyors. Royal owns the Kedem Winery in upstate New York and the Herzog Wine Cellars in Oxnard, California, and has a portfolio of domestic and international wines from France, Israel, Spain, New Zealand and Argentina.
Jay Buchsbaum, Royal VP of Marketing and Director of Wine Education, said the event was designed to give wine buyers, writers and consumers a chance to taste new wines being released for Passover in one place and see what trends are developing. “This is an opportunity for wine buyers, retailers, operators of Passover programs and consumers to taste upwards of 250 different wines and speak to the guys making it; many of the winemakers are here,” he said.
Leo Gross and Mendel Ungar, partners in Teaneck’s FillerUp Kosher Wines, said that’s why they attend each year. “I can see what’s out there, what’s new and get information,” said Gross. “I can meet the winemakers directly. They explain the history of the wine, information I can pass on to customers.” Ungar said, “The show is beautiful and it’s nice to be in a warm, Jewish environment.”
The partners said they go to the show to find wines they can bring into the store that are good quality and good value for their price range. Gross said each year he concentrates on a different segment of the market and this year he looked at the higher end wines. He liked the Adama Cabernet, Merlot, Shiraz and Sauvignon Blanc wines from Tabor winery, located in the Galilee, in the foothills of Mt. Tabor, calling them “a perfect value for the price.” He praised the Herzog Variations, “a bridge between regular and reserve wines, full bodied with lots of flavor.” The Variations Three, Four and Five are all from Cabernet grapes but different vineyards. Gross also noted the new Herzog Single Vineyard Dry Creek Cabernet Sauvignon.
Ungar urges wine drinkers to expand their horizons and try something beyond the known and comfortable Cabernet and Merlot wines. He singled out wine made from Carignan and Petite Verdot grapes. He also likes wine from the Argaman, an Israeli grape used in blends for its nice purple color, now becoming a star by itself. Ungar said Segal’s is using it as a single varietal and Barkan as a blend with Merlot. He also recommends a new wine he tasted at the show, scheduled to be available this spring, called BC from Matar by Pelter, a five star winery making its first Certified Kosher wine. One trend the partners noticed was more GSM varietals: Grenache, Syrah and Mourvedre grapes. They described GSM as a blend from the Mediterranean region, Southern France and Spain. “Wine is not like soda,” Ungar said. “To develop your pallet, you must try something different and then take a picture of a wine you try that you like,” he recommends.
The afternoon media and the trade only focused squarely on the business of getting to know the wines. In the evening hours, the swirling of wine glasses mingled with the gentle scraping of forks and spoons on plates, as food exhibitors joined the party. Kosher foodies feasted on artistically arranged “tastes,” presented beautifully in bite sized portions. New York’s top restaurants were there—Manhattan’s Prime Grill, Le Marais and Mike’s Bistro and Brooklyn’s The Loft, Chagall Bistro and Glatt A La Carte.
They had competition from the West Bank of the Hudson. Seth Warshaw, owner and chef of Teaneck’s ETC Steakhouse, said before the event, “I wanted to show consumers that New York is not the only destination for good food; New Jersey has a lot to offer.” Warshaw prepared thin sliced, cured rib-eye steak with potato bacon mousse and lotus root chip, served cold. “I wanted something to show we are a steak house but that was easy to plate, and the Lotus root has a really interesting pattern when you slice it thinly.” It was an irresistible combination—rare beef, a creamy sauce and the crunch of lotus root was just a perfect blend of texture and taste.
Yossi Abadi, manager of kosher catering at The Palisadium in Cliffside Park, New Jersey, served chicken drumette lollipops with mango sauce. “We tested dozens of hors oeuvres and selected this one. It was easy to transport and didn’t have to be cooked here. The braised meat in the middle is coated by risotto and bread crumbs and is then fried; all the juice stays inside and the outside has crunch.” Abadi says The Palisadium hosts kosher events for small parties of 30—70 and can hold up to 600 for a comfortable sit-down wedding.
Krystina Gianaris, the Founder and Cake Designer of Teaneck’s Cake and Company, prepared chocolate cake filled with merlot custard topped with buttercream; vanilla cake filled with berry white zinfandel mousse, also topped with buttercream, and assorted cake truffles, including one with a fudgy, dense center. Grapes and leaves made from fondant surrounded a wine bottle to beckon visitors to the table. Gianaris learned the trade in school but said she developed her artistic touches from experience. Cake & Company makes custom cakes, cupcakes, cookies, cake pops and small pastries, all pareve and nut free.
The name Shlomy’s Heimeshe Bakery may not be familiar to Bergen County consumers but that’s who is making the beautiful cakes, breads and pastries at Teaneck’s Cedar Market. Some are baked fresh on site and others are delivered from the Brooklyn bakery. Shlomy’s offered assorted cakes, cookies including chocolate chip and lace, several flavors of rugelach, and pastries.
Only the cowboys were missing from the western themed display of Gemstone Catering, Got Cholent? and The Wandering Que, all run by Ari White in Westchester. A very large set of antlers sat on the table, pointing to smoked chicken and beef sliders. The BBQ theme missed the herring bar but then found its way to the selection of international cholents and the upscale Barbacoa Beef Cheek Tacos. The Wandering Que is a pop-up real Texas BBQ operation that travels around the tri-state area, appearing at street festivals and shul events, and in towns without a large kosher food presence. The Wandering Que will be in Teaneck next month at Beth Aaron and B’nai Yeshurun, and will soon travel to Livingston, West Orange, Highland Park, Edison, Deal and Lakewood.
Silverleaf Caterers in Riverdale prepares food for events in New York, New Jersey and Connecticut. Interesting pairings at their display included a triangle of chicken on pastrami and green onion waffle and a BBQ Sundae with pulled brisket topped with mashed potatoes and caramelized onions served in an ice cream parfait cup.
After sampling a parade of meat dishes, a stop at Finchi’s by Aunti Rashi was refreshing. Rachelle Kassai makes desserts like mousse and brownies, including some that are nut, sugar, gluten and dairy free. Chocolate lovers, take note. She sells to area markets including New Jersey’s Grand & Essex, Ma’adan and Glatt Express.
Food—and wine—for thought as you prepare for Purim and Pesach.
By Bracha Schwartz
