Legendary former football coach Bill Parcells once said that “the best ability is availability.” And while that statement might be true in sports, I think it’s possible to tweak the quote for the restaurant industry. Perhaps, the best ability is reliability.

“Reliable” is a top attribute at The Loft Steakhouse. The original location in Boro Park has been serving customers for more than a decade. With a reputation as perhaps the best restaurant in Brooklyn, The Loft has established its brand as one that features a mix of traditional high end kosher restaurant fare alongside some elements to expand the culinary horizons of its many fans.

Speaking of expanding, The Loft announced in 2021 that it would be opening up a second location in Lakewood. As the community and restaurant scene continues to grow in the area, The Loft decided that there would be no better place to build its next branch.

And build it did. The brand new construction opened in 2024 and features some great spaces including a main dining room, multiple private rooms, a party room with a separate entrance, a bar room, and even an outdoor terrace that can be used in good weather. Overall, the restaurant can seat up to 400 people at one time.

When I was invited to the new location of The Loft, I decided to start out with sushi, as is customary at many high end kosher steakhouses these days. One roll in particular caught my eye, and after trying it, I would certainly recommend it to anybody who likes sushi configurations that are less common. While I like a good tempura roll as much as anybody, I sometimes find the crunchiness to be a bit overpowering. The Sumo Roll features tempura kani and avocado on the inside of a maki roll that is then topped with seared salmon. The crunch being both lighter and internal made for a great bite that paired well with the flavor of the salmon and the creaminess of the avocado. Slightly innovative, but not intensely complicated.

In terms of meat appetizers, I’d immediately suggest you order the Sweetbreads (assuming that is your kind of thing). These are pan fried in a veal jus with shiitake mushrooms. Not only were the mushrooms a great flavor to impart on the dish, but the texture worked because the sweetbreads themselves were perfectly crisp on the outside. The veal jus added good depth to the dish overall and everything came together nicely.

Another introductory dish that I would vouch for is the Duck Gnocchi. Similarly to the sweetbreads, this was prepared with beech mushrooms. They added a bit more texture to the plate as the duck confit and jus escorted that wonderful duck flavor to my taste buds. The gnocchi were just the right amount of chewy, allowing me to savor each bite.

Moving on to the main part of your meal, you will likely get the picture that your choice comes down to steak, or not steak. While I don’t usually recommend chicken in high end places, the Loft Chicken will be an exception to that rule. It may not be the most innovative meal ever put on a plate, but this chicken, mashed potatoes and veggies dish is really something. First, the chicken is two whole pieces of skin-on boneless chicken thigh. Not only is the mouthfeel on the pan-roasted chicken absolute perfection, but the same can be said for the creaminess of the mashed potatoes and the crisp bite of string beans. Again, you don’t need the most complex food if what you have is exceptional in execution.

But the real headline piece here is the Pastrami Crusted Black Angus Rib Eye. This is a 24-ounce masterpiece that had been seared, rubbed with pastrami seasoning, and then baked. The result is a bright red medium rare slab of meat that is so soft that you can easily cut it with the side of your fork. Putting the rub on after the initial sear helps to ensure that none of it comes off on the grill. I got the Cajun Fries on the side and you should too. Sometimes there’s just something great about a steak and fries.

If you have room for dessert, I will pass along a recommendation that my waiter insisted on … try the Pecan Cinnamon Twist. I was reluctant to try pareve cream cheese frosting (especially given that I’m not exactly a huge fan of dairy cream cheese frosting), but after being talked into it, I was amazed by how good this was. It tasted just like you bought it at your local Cinnabon, but it was a scrumptious pareve version topped with pareve vanilla ice cream. I’m not usually surprised, but this dish made it happen.

So whether you are in Lakewood or Brooklyn, The Loft is the place to go. There are enough options that you might not be sure what you are going to get, but you can be sure that what you are going to get will be great.

Nati Burnside is a freelance writer living in Fair Lawn and is a man of many interests. He can be reached at [email protected].