As a restaurant columnist, I am frequently asked for recommendations. Sometimes it’s what restaurant to go to, other times it’s what to order at a particular restaurant.
The places that I’m asked the most about are ones where the menu isn’t that of your standard kosher restaurant. Such is the case with Casa Tevere, a new authentic Italian eatery on the Upper East Side. Not only is the menu in Italian, but it’s fairly small as well. Those two factors lead some people to panic about choosing the right thing. The good news is I’m here to help. The better news is the food at Casa Tevere is amazing.
When I was invited to visit Casa Tevere, I was struck by how intimate the setting was. The restaurant isn’t large, has low lighting, and has a slight buzz of quiet conversations. The white tablecloths help establish the elegance that is backed up by the decor, a kind of sleek vibe that includes a bar with seating that is often utilized due to the high demand for reservations.
For me, the focal point of the menu here is the entrée section. Nevertheless, if it’s an appetizer you want, I’d recommend the Polpette. As an authentic Italian restaurant, Casa Tevere uses much more veal than you will see on most menus, so it shouldn’t surprise you that this trio of meatballs are made from veal instead of the standard beef. They are served over the top of a creamy polenta and a light tomato sauce, a nice combination so that neither of the other two elements detracts from your focus on the meatballs. The veal taste is certainly distinct and it probably stands out even more given that you likely haven’t had veal meatballs recently. In the event that you take some of my later advice and order something that isn’t veal, this would be a good thing to order so you have fulfilled your obligation.
Nothing is more Italian than pasta and you probably won’t have many chances to order house-made tortellini. That’s why I recommend you try the Tortellini Alla Boscaiola. The tortellini are stuffed with a blend of lamb and veal which tastes mostly of lamb (due to lamb having a much stronger taste) but has the advantage of the texture component from the veal so as to be less gamey. The sauce is made from a blend of mushrooms and the flavors complement each other perfectly. The earthy taste of both the lamb and the mushrooms is a nice pairing that comes close to the edge of being too much without falling off.
Moving on to the main part of the menu, you’ll notice that many of the choices are just different iterations of proteins and preparations. This is common in Italian cuisine, but I’m here to guide you with how you should order what dishes. Most of the entrées come with peppers, potatoes and green beans to round out the plate and those side dishes are trustworthy accompaniments to whatever you choose to order.
Firstly, if you are looking for something lighter, go with the Salmone Piccata. One of the best pieces of fish I’ve had in a while, this dish somehow succeeds in making the fish very light and flaky while the sauce is reduced down and nicely thickened, leading to a brilliantly acidic punch with every bite. The salmon is sautéed in a white wine sauce that carries an addictive blend of lemon and caper flavors. This is the rare piece of fish that could please a meat-eater because it is the best way to experience a flavor profile that simply works best with fish.
That said, the Pollo Modenese might be even harder to convince a patron to order. Not as light as the fish and not the specialty of the restaurant like the veal, the chicken is in a kind of middle ground that might lead to it being overlooked by most. Truthfully, that’s fine … unless you love balsamic vinegar. Personally, balsamic is one of my favorite flavors and these chunks of dark meat sautéed in the vinegar were irresistible. The texture was perfectly tender, the flavor was powerful, and I was impressed by the consistency of the sauce that coated the chicken. This is one of the few dishes I’ve had while writing this column that I vow to attempt to make myself (even if there’s no chance I succeed to the degree of the version I tasted).
Saving the best recommendation for last, you have got to try the Scaloppine Di Vitello Al Marsala. This is why you walk into Casa Tevere. There’s just no way that I could ever imagine making veal scaloppine. Not only would I fail miserably, but even a moderate success wouldn’t approach the perfection of this dish. The traditional marsala preparation is executed perfectly on the slices of lightly coated veal, and the mushrooms are almost as delicious as the meat itself. Using some of the leftover sauce to pair with the vegetables on the plate enhances their value as well. This is the kind of plate where you have to actively remember to savor every bite so you don’t just scarf down the whole thing in two minutes and forget to experience the finer points of the dish.
When it comes to dessert, I’m not really going to tell you what to do. The three choices are a chocolate mousse, a napoleon and a tartufo. If the deep chocolate flavor is what gets you going, go with the mousse. If pastry and cream is more your style, try the napoleon. If a meal isn’t complete without ice cream, then it has to be the tartufo. Whichever one you pick, you’ll be pleased, so go with your gut.
The best compliment I have for Casa Tevere is that going there is a great way to avoid buying a plane ticket to Italy. You might need to visit the restaurant a couple of times to try everything on your list, but the good news is that the commute is a little closer than Rome.
So go to Casa Tevere and eat as the Romans eat.
Nati Burnside is a freelance writer living in Fair Lawn and a man of many interests. He can be reached at natiburnside@gmail.com.
