Most restaurants in the kosher world lean one way … or the other. If you go to a place with counter service, you will usually get fairly unfancy food. If you go to a place that has waiter service, the food is likely to be a little bit more high end.
Capri, a new dairy restaurant in Woodmere, New York is trying to change that. Rather, it might not be actively trying to change anything at all, but instead it just seems to put out good, elegant food at an affordable price point. The dishes are plated nicely and it certainly has a nicer vibe than other places it might be competing with.
While working off of their brunch menu, Capri is counter service, yet serving a quality product. Everything still seems like an upscale dairy cafe in presentation, only without the high prices and waiter service. And even though there are waiters once they switch to the dinner menu later in the day, the prices remain extremely reasonable for the type of fare you’ll find when you sit down.
When I was invited to Capri, I was able to taste dishes off both of their menus. If you go before 4 p.m., your meal will be guided by the brunch menu, whereas after that point, the dinner menu takes over.
Starting with the brunch menu, I would recommend the Italian Grilled Cheese. Everybody loves a grilled cheese, but Capri takes the sandwich up a notch in a couple of ways. The first is that the sourdough and mozzarella sandwich is dipped in batter and fried to give it an added crunch on the outside while sealing in the cheesy goodness. The second step is the addition of a marinara caper sauce to dip the sandwich in. The result is like a more upscale version of the best mozzarella sticks you’ve ever had in your life.
Sticking with the brunch menu, my favorite of the pizzas is the Capri Slice. This invention has a tomato sauce base topped with slices of fresh mozzarella, cherry tomatoes and fresh basil with a drizzle of balsamic reduction. The crust is a crisp base that provides a good crunch and supports the toppings nicely, the sauce and cherry tomatoes contribute a rich acidity, the cheese reminds you that it’s pizza, the basil brings an herby twist, and the balsamic finishes the bite with a touch of sweetness.
Both of those items are great on the earlier menu, but my two favorite things are thankfully available on both menus so you don’t have to worry about what time you sit down. My top pick is the Dirty Fries. This large portion of fries is the best dairy version I’ve ever had. The fries are loaded with black beans and pico de gallo with a duo of melted cheeses (cheddar and mozzarella) and topped with some spicy mayo. The only downside here is that you may not be able to stop eating them once you take your first bite. The portion is easily enough for people to share; just be cognizant that you are risking a race to finish them among the members of your party.
Less conducive to sharing, but also addictive, is the Homemade Pappardelle Mushroom Truffle. There’s nothing like pasta that’s made in-house and I’m a sucker for a good white sauce, so this really hit the spot for me. The combination of mushrooms (cremini and shiitake) and truffle oil was a smash hit as the rich flavors of the parmesan and truffle oil balanced well with the meatiness of the mushrooms and the thickness of the house noodles. I could easily eat this dish every day for a week and not get tired of it.
As we move on to the dinner menu there start to be more fish options to choose from. Anybody looking for a salad that is both more than just an appetizer and something out of the ordinary should check out the Kani Salad. The ingredients might sound familiar. There’s kani, vegetables (red and yellow peppers, cucumber, carrot and red onion), and crispy wontons with an Asian dressing. But with everything cut julienne (matchstick) style, the finished product kind of looks like a more colorful slaw than anything else. The flavors are great and you don’t have to worry about getting some of everything onto your fork at the same time as everything pretty much blends together. The result is a crunchy, tangy, refreshing salad that can be either shared or selected as a healthy main.
Going the opposite direction, the Fish and Chips Burger isn’t really healthy or shareable. But it is absolutely delicious, so you still might want to order it. The pretzel bun makes for a good vehicle to support the pieces of tempura-battered mahi mahi, house slaw and tartar sauce. As indicated in the name, the sandwich comes with fries that are really crispy and fill out the plate. The tempura is both light and crunchy and the mahi mahi is a step up from your average fish, so that part of the sandwich is a big win. The slaw isn’t too wet and the classic addition of the tartar sauce makes this something that any fried fish connoisseur will appreciate.
Overall, Capri is a great place for many kinds of outings. You could be meeting a friend for brunch, hanging out with a big group and sharing many dishes over lunch, or even having a romantic dinner. With affordable prices, nice ambiance and good food, go there for whatever reason you like.
Nati Burnside is a freelance writer living in Fair Lawn and is a man of many interests. He can be reached at [email protected].
Capri
Dairy – Counter Service (Lunch), Waiter Service (Dinner)
Sunday: 10:30 a.m.-8 p.m.
Monday: 11 a.m.-7:30 p.m.
Tuesday-Thursday: 11 a.m.-8 p.m.
Friday: 10:30 a.m-2:30 p.m.
(516)218-2848
1047 Broadway
Woodmere, New York
Vaad Hakashrus of the Five Towns & Far Rockaway
