Ondas by Fuego was a long time coming.
After years of anticipation, the restaurant opened at the end of last summer to great acclaim. With so many people familiar with restaurants in Miami by the same ownership group, Ondas came onto the scene with pretty high expectations. I’m happy to say that the food certainly lives up to the hype.
But Ondas isn’t just about the food. Much like its sister restaurants in South Florida (Fuego by Mana, Oki Miami, G7 Rooftop, and the soon-to-open Puya Urban Cantina), Ondas is about the vibe. People come here to celebrate. There’s music, there’s a bar, there’s singing and dancing when there’s a special occasion (there’s always a special occasion), and there’s great food. Whether it’s a birthday, a promotion, or life in general, the people here are happy about something.
When I was happily invited to Ondas, I found myself confronted with their wide array of tempting appetizers. If you’re still trying to get past that winter chill, I’d start off with the Matzo-Ball Tortilla Soup. This was a surprising highlight for me as the soup base was a thick tomato purée with a dense spice profile. The flavor was intense and the textures of the roasted corn, black beans and the matzah ball were highlights along with the interesting use of pulled chicken. The shape of the chicken almost pinch hits for the noodles you might get in a regular bowl of matzah ball soup, but makes the bowl that much heartier.
Now that you’ve warmed up, let’s cool down and order some raw fish. The Aguachile is a masterpiece of a dish and you’ll have fun getting some of everything together on one fork. The slices of hamachi and wedges of avocado are wrapped in thin slices of radish and topped with serrano, cucumber and red onion before being doused in cilantro sauce. The result packs some real punch as the sauce permeates through the different components. The tender fish, creamy avocado and sharp bite of the radish, serrano and red onion are bound together by the sauce. The result is utter harmony.
If you’ve ever encountered pictures from Ondas on social media, you’re probably familiar with the Beef Empanadas. Perhaps the most popular order here, the pair of pastries live up to their reputation. The ground beef on the inside is flavored beautifully and the outside’s seed-covered surface is crunchy enough to make you wonder why more places don’t use a similar method. The salsa verde provides an acidic punch that takes them up a notch and really makes the dish stand out among its peers.
But if there’s one appetizer that I insist you order, it’s the Birria Tacos. If you aren’t familiar, birria is a kind of stew made with beef that is braised low and slow. The fat rises to the top of the pot and the tortillas used for the tacos are crisped using the fat from the stew itself before being filled with some of the delicious meat. The number of kosher restaurants doing this can be counted on one hand, so you really shouldn’t pass up the chance to eat something like this. I wouldn’t blame you if you just wanted to eat several orders of these for your entire meal.
That said, the entrées on Ondas ended up being just as difficult to choose from as the appetizers. As it is a steakhouse, I’ll recommend the Cowboy 32 oz. You just can’t go wrong with a 30-day dry aged American Black Angus steak. It’s everything you want it to be. From the great char on the outside to the tender inside that’s so soft you can easily cut it with a fork, the taste is perfection. There are plenty of other steaks to choose from on the menu, so if another strikes your fancy, don’t be afraid to go with your gut. These guys know how to make a steak.
One of the more interesting options on the menu is the Bread Rib Eye. Usually called milanesa, the hammered down rib eye is fried in a bread crumb mixture that includes tajin and served with a tamarind barbecue sauce. Considering how infrequently milanesa is found in kosher restaurants, you may not have ever had anything like this. If it sounds interesting to you, give it a shot. The crispy steak is enhanced by the sauce as the sweetness and the slightly spicy crunch of the coating blend together and bind to the meat. It might not be for everyone, but you might just love it.
Last but not least, there’s a section on the menu called “Signatures.” Each of these can probably feed 3-4 people and are great options for sharing. While I’m sure both the steak and the short ribs are great, the Lamb Barbacoa is what drew my attention. Served in a large clay pot full of delicious lamb topped with pickled red onions, this comes with four tortillas for you to potentially use to make tacos with the other ingredients (a medley of house pickled veggie spears, refried beans, guacamole and salsa roja). The vibrant colors led me to actually construct one of these tacos (a tough ask given I had to stop myself from just eating the delicious lamb on its own) and I was simply blown away by the combination of flavors and textures. The lamb is fatty and juicy, the pickled veggies were crisp and acidic, and the trio of condiments added creaminess and sweetness. I don’t know that I could’ve asked for a better bite.
So go experience Ondas. It may not be in South Florida, but it’s the closest thing you’re going to get to Miami without getting on a plane. You might not have tropical weather, but at least you can get some authentic Mexican cuisine.
Hear the music, taste the flavors, feel the vibe.
Ondas by Fuego:
Meat – Waiter Service – Mexican Steakhouse
Sunday: 5-10 p.m.
Monday-Thursday: 5:30-10:30 p.m.
(516) 341-0092
488 Central Ave., Cedarhurst, New York
Vaad Hakashrus of the Five Towns & Far Rockaway
Nati Burnside is a freelance writer living in Fair Lawn and a man of many interests. He can be reached at [email protected].
