It’s still cold enough that I can produce just one more comforting, creamy—and yes, a somewhat calorie-filled dish. When I made this cauliflower and mushroom gratin, I thought, “I’m doing too many steps. It probably won’t be worth it. Not a winner. Forget it.”

With some trepidation, I served the finished dish alongside broiled flounder.  Much to my astonishment and delight, everyone kept going back for more servings of the cauliflower dish. My daughter exclaimed, “This is really good! I don’t even like cauliflower. Can I take the leftovers home?” There were none. So, much to my surprise, this cauliflower and mushroom gratin made it into this week’s column. I’ve streamlined a couple of steps. Some could not be changed. For example, it is important to roast the cauliflower in the oven; the flavor becomes deliciously nutty and peppery.

What You Need:

Large sauté pan

Heavy-bottomed medium pot for blending the roux and making the sauce

A 9 x 12½ or any ovenproof casserole with equal capacity

1 large baking pan covered in foil

Additional foil

1 large cauliflower

10 oz. cleaned mushrooms: white and/or cremini worked for me. Oyster mushrooms would have been a nice addition—or mix them up and add baby portabellas too.

3 T. chopped shallot

¾ C. whole milk

½ C. heavy cream

½ C. sour cream (The cream and milk should be blended in one container for convenience.)

½ C. freshly grated Parmesan, and 2-3 T. to top off the casserole

1½ T. flour

Olive oil

2 T. butter

2-3 T. Panko (perfect way to use up some soon-to-be obsolete chametz)

What to Do:

Finely chop the shallots and set them aside.

Cut off and reserve the mushroom stems. Slice the caps as thinly as you can. Prepare the sauté pan with olive oil to cover the bottom. Sauté the shallots until they are very soft but not browned. Reduce the heat as needed. When the shallots are soft, add a bit of olive oil to the pan. Add the mushrooms and sauté very, very carefully. You must gently move them around as they let off steam and begin to soften. You will see them become more pliant. Sauté until the liquid has been reduced to about ¼ cup. Add one tablespoon of butter and sauté until the mushrooms are all coated. Adding butter helps trigger a caramelization process. Set the mushrooms aside.

Preheat oven to 450 degrees.

Separate the cleaned cauliflower into medium-large florets roughly equal in size. The larger florets can be cut in half. Cover the foil-lined pan with olive oil. Transfer the florets onto the greased pan. Drizzle olive oil all over the florets, enough to coat them. Roast at 450 degrees until they attain a golden brown color and can be pierced by a fork. This could take anywhere from 20 to 40 minutes. I believe a great deal depends on your oven. When the cauliflower takes on a nice, rich, toasty brown color, turn over all the pieces and return to the oven. You will see that beneath each floret, a caramel effect has begun. Return to oven. After 10 minutes, check to see if the tops are sufficiently brown and roasted. If so, remove from the oven. Check the stems of the florets by piercing with a fork. If the stems are still too hard, re-cover the casserole with a layer of foil, shut off the oven, and put the pan back in the still-warm oven to finish the stems yet not over-roast the florets.

Keep in mind that ovens vary. Your cauliflower may need less cooking time than mine did. Or more.

When the cauliflower is done, add the mushroom/shallot sauté to the cauliflower in the pan and toss to distribute. Sprinkle with a bit of salt and a couple of grinds of pepper. Cover with the foil used for the cauliflower.

Preheat the oven to 375 degrees.

In the heavy-bottomed pot, melt 1 tablespoon of butter. When it is melted, start incorporating the flour, stirring constantly to make a light roux. Always adjust the flame to avoid burning or scorching. Very slowly add the milk and cream mixture, stirring the bottom thoroughly. As the milk and cream are incorporated, a thicker blend will appear. Switch to a whisk when the roux is thoroughly blended with the milk and cream. Blend in the Parmesan cheese, then the sour cream. Remove from the heat immediately. Add salt and pepper to taste, the cayenne, the nutmeg, all in the amounts you prefer, and then a dash more: the vegetables themselves have not been seasoned.

Butter or oil the casserole. Transfer the cauliflower and mushrooms into the prepared casserole. Pour the sauce over the top, thoroughly covering the vegetables.

Sprinkle with Parmesan, then Panko, and drizzle the top with more olive oil.

Bake at 375 degrees for 20 minutes, longer if necessary. Check for a crisp, brown top, and a bit of bubbly action peeking out from below.

While we’re waiting for spring flowers, let’s salute the unsung cauliflower. Prepared thusly, it might just take center stage on your table.

By Lisa Reitman Dobi