High-end kosher dairy restaurants are few and far between. Maybe it’s the feeling that any expensive meal must by definition include meat, or maybe it’s that fancier restaurants are generally only open for dinner and most kosher consumers eat dairy in the morning and afternoon and save their meat eating for later.
Either way, you could probably count the number of truly five-star kosher dairy restaurants in the country on one hand. But however many there are, Teva is not only on the list, but perhaps at the very top.
Having opened last year on the third floor of the DSN Beach Club, Teva’s allure isn’t just based on the food. When you walk in, you’ll notice a raised seating area in the middle of the floor that sits directly above a retractable roof. (The roof is frequently open at night when the weather cooperates.) The far wall provides seating next to the open kitchen and the near wall features an elegant bar room for a nice change of space. The two sides feature seating alongside long glass walls. The first faces the beach club’s courts, while the other provides an unobstructed view of the ocean from a couple hundred yards away.
Given its location inside the beach club, you must be a member (or dining with one) to get into Teva during the busy season (Shavuot to Labor Day). But as Teva is now open to the public once again, I encourage you to go inhabit the relaxation and luxury of the experience this restaurant provides.
When I was invited to Teva, I opened my menu to the first page and saw several possible opening courses. One I strongly suggest you try is the Bruschette. This is three pieces of housemade focaccia topped with the chef’s topping of the day. Mine was a trio of the classic tomato-onion blend with ricotta, a fresh avocado cream with feta, and a smoked salmon and cream version that stole the show. Not only were all three fantastic, but the difference in flavor profiles came together perfectly with one acidic, one creamy, and one salty. The focaccia itself would have been perfect on its own, but the toppings were somehow an upgrade on perfection.
The other appetizer that caught my eye immediately was the Red Snapper e Arance. Making fish with oranges is an Italian tradition and the red snapper was absolutely delicious after being barbecued and plated with the cara cara slices. The crispy pieces of leek that topped the dish were also a nice addition to the texture of the bite, making me wish there was an entrée portion of this appetizer.
But as Teva is an Italian restaurant, the pasta dishes are likely one of the reasons you walk in the door. All the pasta is made fresh, but even within the pasta category, you’ll find some things that look familiar while others are special to Teva if you are a kosher keeper. Let’s start with the Fusilli al Limone. As fresh as the pasta is, the sauce is also refreshing in this case, as the pecorino cheese and Italian meyer lemons come together to make a creamy yet slightly sweet and acidic sauce. Meyer lemons look and taste a bit different compared to the American varieties. With a higher sugar content, the taste is a bit more balanced. The toppings of breadcrumbs and mint elevate the plate just a little extra by adding a slight crunch and aftertaste. If it wasn’t for the next paragraph, I would demand you order it.
With apologies to the fusilli, my top recommendation goes to the Tagliolini al Forno. This is the kind of dish you might find in some expensive non-kosher Italian restaurants in America, but I’m not sure any kosher establishment other than Teva is serving it anywhere. The Venetian dish uses a wide, shallow, ceramic bowl, and a spaghetti-like pasta is cooked in a bechamel sauce by being placed in an oven. The big attraction is actually the fact that the bowl is topped with a healthy layer of grated parmigiano that bakes until it forms a solid golden brown layer that seals the top of the bowl. They bring it to your table and cut it into slices which you are able to eat with a knife and fork. The bottom is a creamy pasta that would be great by itself, but it’s attached to the baked parmesan crust top. The “crunch and mush” texture combination is often said to be the perfect bite and this is the epitome of that. It is not to be missed.
As amazing as the pasta is, some people will insist on a higher level of protein if going out to a fancy dairy restaurant. If that sounds like you, maybe try the Bistecca di Tonno. This two-pound tuna steak is wonderfully pepper-crusted, made with a perfect Pittsburgh style (charred outside, raw inside), and comes with a tasty side of crunchy roasted potatoes. I loved the use of the cooking method with the tuna as I enjoy both cooked and raw varieties. Like the other fish dishes I ordered, the portion size was quite large, so plan accordingly. You might want to split a fish entrée and a pasta one between two people so nobody gets jealous.
Very few kosher restaurants offer a whole wild caught Dover Sole on their menu, but if that’s something that interests you, Teva’s is magnificent. Your server will bring the fish whole to your table and debone it for you before laying the fish down on a platter large enough to fit the filets. They will then top it with the traditional sauce made of herbs, cream and capers. And in case you were worried about a side dish, it comes with some of the best dairy mashed potatoes I’ve ever tasted.
At this point, I would usually get into desserts. But Teva had so many great options (10!) that I urge you to just try whatever it is that you feel speaks to you personally. I tried a few things and they were all amazing. You probably can’t go wrong, so just take your best shot.
Fantastic dining experiences are a delight and Teva is certainly that. Whether it’s the unique view, cuisine or experience, Teva is making a name for itself. Go out of your way to be a part of it.
Nati Burnside is a freelance writer living in Fair Lawn and is a man of many interests. He can be reached at [email protected].
