Castell’s might be the best kept secret in Brooklyn kosher restaurants these days. Located in Gravesend, it’s not on the road most traveled. In fact, if you aren’t looking for it, you will almost certainly walk right past the entrance. There’s a small plaque with the name of the restaurant and a man standing outside to open the door for you. But that door is no ordinary door. It’s a portal from a busy street in Brooklyn to what is perhaps the fanciest kosher dairy restaurant on the planet.
Castell’s looks amazing. From large majestic mirrors and fancy flooring to imported table linens and service staff in white coats, you’ll forget the outside world within seconds of walking in. The staff here comes with experience at some of the finest restaurants in the world. That starts at the top with Chef Vitaliy Pinitsa, and continues with the manager, the sommelier and the barman.
Patrons can sit at the bar and order the Castell’s Martini (cardamom-infused vodka, homemade sweet vermouth and coffee liqueur) and appreciate that this is the kind of place that makes their own campari and vermouth because it’s hard to procure kosher versions. Or you can sit at the pizza bar and watch the staff make delicious artisan personal pies in the two wood-burning ovens.
When I was invited to Castell’s, I sat at a fairly normal table on a very busy night. The buzz was palpable and just watching everything happen would’ve been interesting enough given the focaccia that starts out on your table. But despite the free version, I had to order the Garlic Bread due to the sheer number of people that demanded I try it. And right they were. What came to my table was similar to the focaccia, but topped with parmigiano, chili flakes and parsley with an entire gravy boat of the house marinara on the side. I could’ve eaten all four of the hearty slices, but I decided to show restraint given the rest of the menu in front of me.
You may find it impossible to sit in the dining room facing those pizza ovens without ordering one. I recommend you choose the Bianca Pizzete. This is a white pie that uses a three-cheese blend (ricotta, mozzarella and parmigiano) as a base and is topped with sliced zucchini and drizzled with hot honey. The char on the bottom of the pie was clearly a perfect result of the pizza oven and the unique flavors came together nicely.
I understand if you might want something with slightly less dough and cheese. In that event, try the Carpaccio di Tonno. A supremely fresh tasting dish, the tuna is topped with olive oil, lemon juice, capers, arugula, onions, fresno peppers, and sunchoke chips. The tuna is sliced so thin that it will melt in your mouth, the toppings add elements of acidity, saltiness and crispiness, and yet the plate is so beautiful that you’ll be sad you had to destroy it. But destroy it you must. Your taste buds demand it.
If we are being honest with ourselves, the main reason you came to Castell’s is likely the pasta. You’ll find it hard to choose from the handful of options, so I’ll try to help out a bit. If you want something a little bit on the spicier side, go for the Chiocciole alla Vodka Picante. This house-made pasta comes with a spicy vodka sauce and shouldn’t be underestimated despite its fairly simple presentation. The sauce is to die for and the pasta is everything you want it to be.
But the most special thing on the menu is the Capellini al Forno. This is the kind of dish that is common only in fancy Italian restaurants of the non-kosher variety. The Venetian dish uses a wide, shallow, ceramic bowl, and a spaghetti-like pasta is cooked in a bechamel sauce by being placed in an oven. The big attraction is actually the fact that the bowl is topped with a healthy layer of grated parmigiano that bakes until it forms a solid golden brown layer that seals the top of the bowl. They bring it to your table and cut it into slices which you are able to eat with a knife and fork. The bottom is a creamy pasta that would be great by itself, but it’s attached to the baked parmesan crust top. This is a must order and is a good dish to split as your server can cut it into any number of slices you want.
A more protein-centric choice of a main dish is the Branzino Intere. I’ve had plenty of branzino in restaurants, but this was the crispiest one by far. There’s nothing like a fish where the skin is perfectly crunchy and you can get some of the filet with each bite. This plate includes both halves of the branzino topped with a small amount of salsa verde with a small arugula salad on the side. For somebody looking for a less carb-heavy meal, this is a great selection.
At some point, you’ll have to leave Castell’s and step back onto the street in Brooklyn. While that will obviously be a sad moment, you can try to tide yourself over by figuring out what to order the next time you step through that portal and into paradise.
At least now you know where to find it.
Castell’s
Dairy – Italian – Waiter Service
Sunday: 11 a.m.-3 p.m., 5-9 p.m.
Monday-Thursday: 5-10 p.m.
Saturday:
1 hour after Shabbat-midnight
(718) 908-0060
222 Ave. U, Brooklyn
Vaad Hakashrus of Flatbush (Rabbi Meir Goldberg)
