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September 16, 2024
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Nōmé Enhances Nikkei Cuisine With More Flavors From Latin America

Chef Santiago Chiuz

Nōmé is a sophisticated and elegant restaurant with artistic décor that befits its downtown/Union Square location at 127 4th Ave. in New York City. Nōmé takes you on a culinary journey that fuses the bold flavors of Latin America with the precision of Japanese cuisine. The latest gem from the Mocha Hospitality Group led by visionary owner Naftali Abenaim, Nōmé joins an illustrious lineup that includes Mocha Bleu in Teaneck, Mocha Burger in Soho and Mocha Burger Lux in Times Square. Each establishment has its own distinct vibe, but Nōmé stands out as the most luxurious.

From the moment you step through the doors of Nōmé, you’re enveloped in an ambiance that’s as much a feast for the eyes as the food is for the palate. The entrance, adorned with a gallery of specially commissioned charcoal drawings, tempts you to pause and appreciate the art — a fitting prelude to the culinary artistry that awaits. Fresh greenery cascades over the reception area, while the opposite wall features a striking graphic of the Nōmé logo framed by lush foliage.

Nikkei roll

As you venture further, a vibrant mural of painted blossoms catches your eye, leading you into a dining area where more mural charcoal sketches — this time depicting serene scenes from rural Japan — invite you to unwind. Soft jazz melodies drift through the air, creating a relaxed yet refined atmosphere perfect for intimate conversations.

Nōmé’s décor reflects its Nikkei cuisine, a style that began when Japanese immigrants came to Peru in the late 1800s and melded the flavors of their current and former home. Chef Santiago Chiuz, the creative force behind Nōmé’s menu, has put his own signature on this genre by incorporating a broader palette of Latin American influences. Trained at the School of Culinary Arts in El Salvador under the tutelage of master French chef Hervé Laurent, Chef Chiuz earned degrees in culinary arts and restaurant management. He honed his skills in the vibrant culinary scene of Miami, where he crafted dishes for the high standards of a discerning international clientele.

Bang bang chicken

At Nōmé, Chef Chiuz has crafted a menu that is both inventive and inviting, offering a tantalizing array of dishes that showcase his culinary prowess. When my husband and I dined at Nōmé with friends on a serene Sunday afternoon, we were fortunate to meet Chef Chiuz himself. He offered personal recommendations and shared how he has woven the diverse influences of his mentors into the exclusive recipes he has developed for Nōmé. His passion for creating a visually and gastronomically stimulating experience was evident in every bite.

We began our culinary adventure with the Nikkei Roll, a masterful blend of torched salmon, cucumber, avocado, Peruvian aji peppers and white truffle oil. This roll was a symphony of flavors — familiar sushi elements elevated by the fiery kick of Peruvian spices and the luxurious taste of truffle. Next, we sampled a selection of meat, chicken and fish appetizers to fully explore the range of Nōmé’s menu.

The Bang Bang Chicken, fried in a delicate tempura batter and served with spiced honey, spicy mayo and chives, was a revelation. Perfectly crispy and light, it set the bar for what tempura should be. Chef Chiuz told me the secret: dry and fry. Moisture is the enemy of crispness. If you’re making a tempura dish at home, pat dry any protein or vegetable before dipping in batter and frying. The beef dumplings, with their juicy ground beef filling and hint of Peruvian aji spice, paired beautifully with the sweet soy glaze. The Lamb Cigars, encased in delicate feuille de brique and served with a rich avocado mousse, were a delightful balance of bold and subtle flavors. The Pan Asian Noodle Salad, a refreshing medley of julienned vegetables, peanuts, basil and mint, dressed in a sweet chili vinaigrette, was the perfect palate cleanser.

Crispy red snapper

At Chef Chiuz’s suggestion, we indulged in two more appetizers. The Filet “Mignon” Strips, flambéed tableside with sake and Latin spices, delivered a dramatic presentation and a burst of spicy flavor on the tender meat. The Crispy Red Snapper was both a visual and culinary masterpiece, with tempura-fried fish chunks served alongside plantain chips and two dipping sauces — a tangy aji pepper sauce and a creamy cilantro aioli. The presentation, with the intact fish carcass artfully displayed, was as impressive as the taste.

Along with our appetizers, we shared a bottle of Herzog Lineage Momentus, a sparkling white wine that struck the perfect balance between dry and sweet. Our friends also enjoyed two of Nōmé’s signature cocktails — a strawberry daiquiri and Pineapple Rum Rose Sangria. I tried a sip of both. The sangria, with its intriguing blend of rum and rose, was a particular standout.

For the main course, we opted for the Delmonico Pepper Crusted Steak, Skirt Steak and Cornish Hen. The Delmonico, a thick and juicy cut, was served with roasted shallots, bordelaise sauce and chives atop creamy mashed potatoes. Chef Chiuz’s expert use of pepper added a warm, subtle heat that complemented rather than overshadowed the meat. Skirt Steak, which is naturally salty, was balanced with an herb sauce and aji purée, while the Cornish Hen, roasted to crispy-skinned perfection, was accompanied by root vegetables, champignon au poivre and a velvety split pea purée.

We paired our dinner with the house red wine, “Luscious,” a bespoke blend from Shirah wines by Twin Suns, created exclusively for the Mocha Hospitality Group. With its “fruit-forward profile, balanced oak, and long, pleasing finish,” it was a sublime match for our meal.

For dessert, we couldn’t resist the chocolate soufflé with vanilla gelato and a warm apple crumble tart, also with vanilla gelato — both classic, comforting and expertly executed. At Chef Chiuz’s urging, we also indulged in the Banana Split Sundae, a grown-up version of a childhood favorite. The halved banana, caramelized like the topping of crème brulé, was filled with three scoops of fruit-flavored sorbet, topped with faux whipped cream and cherries — a fitting end to an unforgettable meal. As a thunderstorm was forecast and the sky was rapidly darkening, we reluctantly left, unfortunately without trying something from Nōmé’s extensive sake collection, a rarity in kosher restaurants.

Delmonico pepper crusted steak

Nōmé is a culinary oasis where innovation meets luxury, all under OU supervision. Chef Chiuz’s interpretation of Nikkei cuisine, with its harmonious blend of culinary influences, offers a refreshing change, making Nōmé an ideal destination for a memorable business lunch, a gourmet dinner, special occasion or a private event. The entire restaurant can be yours for a party of up to 175 people. A private party room, accessed by a separate entrance, accommodates up to 25 people and has its own stunning décor, state of the art sound system and bar.

Nōmé is open Monday-Wednesday, 11:30 a.m.-11:45 p.m.; Thursday, 11:30 a.m.- 2 a.m.; Friday, 10:30 a.m.-7 p.m.; Saturday, one hour after Shabbat-2 a.m.; and Sunday, including a special brunch, 10:30 a.m.-11:45 p.m.; and is ready to welcome you into its world of culinary artistry.

Banana split
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