Sam Eriske opened The Bridge Turkish & Mediterranean Grill in 2010, but it was very different back then. Situated in Long Branch and not kosher, Eriske had heard that he might have a wider audience if his place were kosher.
After Hurricane Sandy, Eriske moved the restaurant to Highland Park in 2015. It wasn’t until 2019 that he took the plunge and became kosher. Since then, the restaurant has been popular with people driving from all over central New Jersey to get the only kosher Turkish cuisine money can buy.
So when a spot opened up on Cedar Lane in Teaneck in late 2023, Eriske jumped at it.
“It is our goal to bring genuine Turkish food to our kosher friends throughout New Jersey,” said Eriske with confidence. “It was only logical to expand to Bergen County. We have been very gratified with the warm welcome we have received by our new neighbors in Northern New Jersey, Rockland County and New York City.”
As it turns out, the kosher consumer is willing to travel quite a bit to experience a cuisine that they’d otherwise have no access to.
When I was invited to check out the new location in Teaneck, I immediately ordered the Bridge Combination. This is a platter of the five Mediterranean appetizers on the menu and it really is the best thing to order as soon as you sit down, as a kind of entry into the culture. There are three types of filo dough rolls on the platter. Sigara boregi are filled with a mixture of ground beef and lamb along with onions, tomatoes, parsley and green peppers. They’ll remind you of Moroccan cigars, but with a deeper flavor due to the vegetables. Next are the avocado rolls which are stuffed with avocado (obviously), onions, tomatoes, cilantro, fresh peas and carrots. The smooth filling and the crispy dough are a nice compliment to each other. The last type was actually my favorite on the platter. The potato rolls may have had fewer ingredients than the others (just potato, carrot and onion), but the herbs used for seasoning made for a great flavor profile. These don’t resemble the bland potato cigars you might be familiar with that are just mashed potatoes and dough.
The other two occupants of the platter are some falafel and mucver. The falafel will be familiar to you other than its unique shape. The Turkish version is more like a pancake, but it tastes just as good. Speaking of pancakes, Mucver are zucchini pancakes and they are really quite tasty with some shredded carrot and dill mixed in. Dipping any of these options with the tahini is up to you and your mileage may vary depending on personal taste. That said, they are all good on their own.
If you’re looking for something else to share (a smart idea when trying new foods), order the Bridge Karisik Pide. A pide is a form of flatbread, even if it’s not quite that flat due to the edges of the dough being folded over to prevent the contents from escaping. This one is stuffed with ground beef and lamb along with peppers and onions. It comes to your table sliced and is ideal for sharing. The soft dough can be either cut with your fork or lifted by hand and the filling packs a real punch of flavor.
The most common entree on the menu is the doner kebab, otherwise known as the gyro. These are long flat strips of meat that are shredded off of a spit and served alongside a bunch of options to add to your bite. There’s some chickpea rice, Turkish bulgur, house salad, a roasted plum tomato, sumac onions and cilantro, and some pita chips. All of those things can really enhance your meal as each one has a different flavor or texture for you to experience alongside the gyro. But you might just want to eat the gyro on its own as the unique flavor accomplished by grinding beef, lamb and herbs before searing them on the spit is something unique. The mouthfeel will also grab you as interesting with each strip being tender on one side with the crispiness on the other. It’s their signature item for a reason.
If you want to lean into the lamb a bit more, I won’t blame you. I’d suggest you order the Kuzu Tandir. Served on a similar type of platter as the gyro, this dish is essentially a pile of pulled lamb leg that is super tender from being baked until it falls off the bone. It is topped with some crispy onions which add a nice crunch given the soft meat. But while the platter comes with some of the same things as the gyro, there are two extra sides here that warrant mention. A healthy dollop of the house hummus and slices of charred jalapeño make this everything you want it to be. If you can get some lamb, onion and jalapeño on your fork and drag it through that hummus… mission accomplished. The spiciness of the pepper and the creaminess of the hummus make this one of the best bites I’ve had in a while. The hummus was so good that I contemplated ordering a full side of it even though I was in the middle of my meal at the time.
In case you have somebody in your party that might not be as adventurous, I suggest the Tavuk Plrzola. This is a dark meat chicken kebab that would be recognizable to almost anyone and is sure to please whoever eats it. The crispy exterior and tender interior make for a great combination and it also comes with some house salad, chickpea rice, Turkish bulgur and a roasted plum tomato. There’s enough chicken for the most timid member of your group to just stay there if need be.
If you’ve left room for dessert, order the baklava. It’s made in-house and is a great end to your meal, as the flavors in previous courses don’t lean on sweetness. The dough comes out crisp and slightly crunchy, the sweetness of the silan is not overbearing, the cream is light and smooth, and the pistachio flavoring provides that signature nuttiness. Taking a bite of this will finalize your cultural experience.
Bridge is a great place to step out of your comfort zone and try something new. I’d suggest that you find your way there, whether it’s in Teaneck or Highland Park.
Hopefully it isn’t a Bridge too far.
