Is Bonito 47 a new restaurant? That really depends on your definition of “new,” I guess. The name is somewhat new, it used to be just “Bonito.” The location is new, because it used to be on 17th Street. The menu is new … mostly.
What isn’t new is the quality (still high) and the chef (Joshua Kessler).
While Bonito 47 is more of a steakhouse compared to the shared plates concept of Bonito, the appetizers are still designed to be shareable. The other notable change is the space is larger, with three areas (main dining room, bar area, private dining room) available for seating. But the most interesting part of the menu is the new Chef’s Tasting.
Not many restaurants offer a chef’s tasting that is always available to whoever walks in the door. Many places will put something together for you if you call in advance, but Kessler (also the chef at Barnea Bistro, a 15-minute walk to the east) wants the concept to become more widely available in the high-end kosher world.
“I chose to create a chef’s tasting menu to showcase my personal creativity, highlight seasonal ingredients and craft an immersive experience for my guests,” said Kessler of the new addition to his menu. “Tasting menus invite diners to ‘trust the chef,’ fostering a shared sense of vulnerability between us. I deeply value the opportunity to create and share these meaningful moments.”
When I was invited to check out the new Bonito 47, I got a feel for what ordering the tasting menu was like. There was a real anticipation of not knowing what was going to come next. Not only that, but there is a certain excitement in trying something that you might not have ordered on your own. It’s like asking a bartender to pick something for you, but on a grander scale. (Bonito 47 has a bar with extensive options if that’s something that interests you.)
For instance, the first course was the soup of the day. Sometimes I fail to even ask what the soup of the day is. But here I was treated to Exotic Mushroom Truffle Soup that was maybe the best soup I’ve ever tasted. Slightly thinner than a purée, the blend of mushrooms provided a deep earthy flavor that was compounded by the classic pairing with the truffle oil. Also of note was the heated bowl the soup came in, which kept it piping hot for several minutes.
Some of the courses came directly from the menu, others were slight alterations of menu items, and there were even those that were totally off menu. I was happy to see the Short Rib Ravioli be included in my tasting as I might have ordered it regardless. The cashew cream sauce and oyster mushrooms gave a distinct feeling of an actual dairy base.
As somebody who prefers things on the spicier side, I was thrilled to get the Crispy Moroccan Cigars, but with an extra kick. On the menu, the filling is braised short rib and the dipping sauce is a garlic aioli, but the tasting menu provided me with chorizo filling and a chipotle aioli, both welcome alterations.
A palate cleanser of sorbet preceded the main course, the Entrecôte. Not only was this a premium piece of meat with the dry aging process (30 days) bringing out the flavor, but the pomme purée and bok choy were nice additions to the plate with different textures to go along with the meat.
After all this, dessert might have somehow been the highlight. My mother used to say that if it doesn’t have chocolate, it’s not actually dessert. Let me tell you, the Chocolate Mousse Cannoli had plenty of chocolate. Not only was there ample chocolate mousse coming out of both sides of each of the two cannolis (artfully displayed vertically), the chocolate sauce on the plate (with candied pecans) was there to glue everything down, and there was a chocolate roll to eat as well. And yet, the best part was what looked to be a giant version of a Ferrero Rocher. It was about the size of a baseball, the outer layer was a thick chocolate with pieces of hazelnut, and the inside was full of vanilla ice cream. Without question, I’d recommend people coming here just for dessert if they are in Midtown.
Obviously, the tasting menu isn’t for everyone. Maybe you don’t like surprises. Maybe you have your heart set on something specific from the menu. Maybe you want to focus on the vast variety of sushi options the restaurant has to offer. Whatever the reason, I’m here to help with that as well.
As for the sushi, Bonito 47 offers an omakase service in addition to many other options. So feel free to leave it up to the sushi chef instead of Kessler if that sounds more like your style. If you’re just going to order one thing, try the Tuna Ruby Roll. The seared spicy tuna combines well with the torched glaze and tempura flakes for a nice punch and texture pairing. If you want something slightly less typical, Bonito 47 even has a few hand rolls to choose from (I’d recommend the Toro Scallion).
Personally, I would never step foot in Bonito (past or present) without ordering their signature Papas Con Pato. Making the transition over from the previous location, this combination of roasted potatoes, duck confit and a poached egg is famous for a reason. Split it or don’t, just make sure it hits your table one way or another.
If poached eggs are your thing, I have good news. While there are a handful of steaks to choose from on the menu, the Steak and Eggs is the least traditional. The sliced hanger steak comes with a great sear so there’s a crisp outside to go with the runny egg and the leafy salad on the plate. Mixed together, they yield a bite you won’t soon forget.
So whether or not Bonito is a familiar name, go make yourself familiar with the place. You’ll be glad you did.
Bonito 47
Meat – Steakhouse – Waiter Service
Sunday: 5-10:30 p.m.
Monday-Thursday: noon-2:30 p.m.; 5-10:30 p.m.
Saturday: 7:30-10:30 p.m.
(212) 209-8822
114 West 47th St.
New York
bonitonyc.com
Orthodox Union (OU)
Nati Burnside is a freelance writer living in Fair Lawn and is a man of many interests. He can be reached at [email protected].
